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Reflected back at me, I can see myself in oversized golden pantaloons, visible only to me. Youngsters relax in a stone basin imitating ocean creatures, meanwhile nearby resides a speaking vegetable in a exhibition box, alongside a imposing pile of mattresses. This is the domain of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), a leading 1800s widely adored authors. I'm visiting the city of Odense, located on Funen in the southern part of Denmark, to explore Andersen’s lasting influence in his native city many decades after his passing, and to discover a few magical stories of my own.

The Cultural Center: HC Andersens Hus

HC Andersens Hus is the city’s cultural center honoring the author, incorporating his first home. A curator explains that in earlier iterations of the museum there was scant attention on the author's tales. Andersen's biography was studied, but Thumbelina were missing. For tourists who come to the city seeking fairytale wonder, it was a little lacking.

The redevelopment of the city center, rerouting a main thoroughfare, made it possible to reconsider how the city’s most famous son could be honored. A major architecture competition awarded the Japanese company the Kengo Kuma team the commission, with the museum's fresh perspective at the center of the design. The remarkable timber-clad museum with connected curving spaces opened to much acclaim in 2021. “Our goal was to build a place where we move beyond simply describing the author, but we talk like him: with wit, irony and perspective,” says the expert. The outdoor spaces take this approach: “It’s a garden for wanderers and for giants, it's created to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he says, a goal realized by thoughtful gardening, manipulating verticality, proportion and many winding paths in a deceptively small space.

Andersen's Impact

Andersen wrote multiple personal accounts and regularly contradicted himself. The museum adopts this philosophy fully; frequently the opinions of his friends or snippets of written messages are displayed to politely doubt the writer's personal account of happenings. “The author is the storyteller, but his account isn't always accurate,” notes the expert. The effect is a fascinating rapid journey of Andersen’s life and work, thinking patterns and best-loved stories. It is thought-provoking and playful, for mature visitors and children, with a bonus lower-level imaginary world, Ville Vau, for the smallest guests.

Visiting the Town

Returning to the real world, the small city of Odense is picturesque, with cobbled streets and traditional Danish homes painted in bright colours. The author's presence is all around: the traffic lights feature the author with his iconic characteristic hat, brass footprints give a complimentary guided stroll, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Annually in August this commitment reaches its height with the regular storytelling event, which marks the writer's impact through art, movement, stage shows and musical performances.

This year, the multi-day festival had numerous performances, many were complimentary. As I explore Odense, I come across artistic acrobats, spooky creatures and an Andersen lookalike narrating adventures. I experience contemporary performances and observe an incredible late-night performance featuring acrobatic dancers coming down from the municipal structure and suspended from a construction equipment. Still to come this year are talks, family art workshops and, broadening the narrative tradition past the author, the city’s annual Magic Days festival.

All good fairytale destinations deserve a castle, and this region features 123 castles and estates around the area

Biking Adventures

Similar to most of Denmark, bicycles are the perfect means to get about in Odense and a “cycling highway” curves through the city centre. Starting at the local hotel, I ride to the complimentary port-side aquatic facility, then out of town for a route around Stige Ø, a compact territory connected by causeway to the primary land. Town dwellers picnic here following their day, or enjoy a tranquil moment catching fish, paddleboarding or swimming.

Back in town, I eat at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the menu is inspired by author-inspired concepts and stories. The verse the national ode is highlighted at the restaurant, and manager the host recites passages, rendered in English, as he introduces the meal. Such encounters commonplace in my visit, the fynbo enjoy storytelling and it feels as though narrating is continuously on the menu here.

Manor House Visits

All good magical places deserve a palace, and this region features 123 castles and manor houses across the island. Going on excursions from the city, I visit Egeskov Palace, the continent's most intact Renaissance water castle. Although large sections are accessible to the public, this historic site is also the personal dwelling of the aristocratic owners and his spouse, the royal resident. I wonder if she would notice a small legume through a pile of {mattresses