Young Native Stars Infusing Fresh Energy into the Skye's Food Scene
With its breathtaking, craggy mountain vista, winding roads and ever-changing weather, the Isle of Skye has long appealed to adventure seekers. Over the last decade, though, the most expansive island in the Inner Hebrides has been drawing visitors for additional factors – its thriving food and drink scene. At the forefront are emerging Sgitheanach (Skye natives) with a international perspective but a devotion to local, environmentally conscious ingredients. This is also driven by an active community determined to create good, permanent jobs that keep young people on the island.
An Enthusiasm for Local Produce
One local chef is a native of the island, and he’s deeply committed to highlighting the island’s produce on his menus. “For those traveling to the island I want them to value the natural beauty, but also the quality of our offerings,” he says. “Our mussels, lobster, scallops and crab are second to none.” He reflects on history: “It is profoundly important to me to use the identical ingredients as my ancestors. My granddad was a fisherman who caught lobster and we’re enjoying shellfish from the same stretch of water, with the same respect for ingredients.”
Montgomery’s Island Flavors menu details the distances his produce has been transported. Visitors can enjoy plump scallops dived by hand in Loch Greshornish (no distance), and caught using traditional methods lobster from Portree (12 miles) with greens, wild herbs and edible flowers from the on-site garden and beach (zero miles). That connection to local bounty and growers is crucial. “Last week I brought a young chef out with a shellfish forager so he could appreciate what they do. We opened scallops directly from the sea and consumed them uncooked with a dash of citrus. ‘I've never tasted a better scallop I’ve ever eaten,’ he said. This is exactly what we want to bring to the restaurant.”
Culinary Ambassadors
Journeying towards the south, in the shadow of the towering Cuillin mountains, another food representative for Skye, an innovative restaurateur, manages a well-loved café. In the past year Coghill showcased Scottish cuisine at a prestigious international food event, offering shellfish buns with Scotch-flavored spread, and traditional Scottish fusion. She first started her café in another location. Coming back to Skye during the pandemic, a temporary events proved there was a audience here too.
Over a specialty drink and delicious blood orange-cured trout, she explains: “I take great pride that I started in an urban setting, but I was unable to accomplish what I can do here. Getting fresh ingredients was a major challenge, but here the scallops come straight from the sea to my kitchen. My creel fisherman only speaks to me in the traditional tongue.” Her passion for Skye’s ingredients, people and environment is apparent across her vibrant, innovative dishes, all filled with regional tastes, with a twist of local culture. “The link to local traditions and dialect is so important,” she says. Guests can use educational materials on the tables to pick up a few words while they dine.
Several locals had jobs off the island. We’d see the ingredients be delivered far from where it was caught, and it’s simply inferior
Honoring Heritage with Creativity
Skye’s more longstanding culinary spots are not resting on their laurels. A boutique hotel managed by a heritage keeper in her family’s ancestral home has for many years been a gastronomic attraction. The proprietor's parent authors popular books on traditional recipes.
The kitchen persistently creates, with a dynamic new generation under the guidance of an experienced head chef. When they’re away from the stoves the chefs cultivate seasonings and flavorings in the hotel greenhouse, and forage for edible weeds in the landscaped areas and ocean-foraged botanicals like seaside vegetation and beach plants from the shoreline of a nearby loch. In the harvest season they track woodland routes to find wild mushrooms in the woodland.
Guests can sample local scallops, pak choi and peanuts in a flavorful stock; Atlantic cod with seasonal spears, and restaurant-cured shellfish. The hotel’s activity leader accompanies visitors for experiences including ingredient hunting and angling. “There’s a huge appetite for experiences from our guests,” says the hotel representative. “Visitors desire to come and really get to know the island and the landscape.”
Supporting the Community
The whisky industry is also playing a role in retain the younger generation on Skye, in careers that last beyond the peak tourism months. An production head at a local distillery notes: “Aquaculture was a big employer in the past, but now the majority of positions are automated. House prices have gone up so much it’s more difficult for the youth to stay. The distilling business has become a really important employer.”
“Opportunities in distilling, training provided” was the notice that a young Skye native saw in her community newspaper, landing her a job at the whisky producer. “I took a chance,” she says, “It was surprising I’d get a production job, but it was a personal goal.” She had an fascination with whisky, but no formal training. “To be able to receive hands-on instruction and take online courses was transformative.” Currently she is a key team member, assisting in teaching apprentices, and has recently created her personal blend using a specialty malt, which is maturing in barrels at the time of writing. In other distilleries, that’s an privilege usually granted to retiring distillers. The tour facility and bistro provide jobs for numerous locals from around the surrounding area. “We integrate with the community because we welcomed the community here,” says a {tour guide manager|visitor experience lead|hospital